For my second excursion, I went along with some others and spent the afternoon at the Santo Stefano Rotondo- one of the largest and oldest circular churches in existence. Miraculously, despite its old age, the only new feature of the building is the floor, with the rest of the features remaining in tact throughout the years past.
Sarah mentioned to us the history of the building and how there used to be a Mithraeum beneath. This circular Rotondo was built on top to commemorate the deaths that occurred below in the Mithraeum amongst the soldiers who were cut up.
The Rotondo is hidden up a side street, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Rome. In fact, it is hidden enough that we passed the entrance gate for the building and had to turn back to enter.
Upon entering, there was a security guard on our left and a small ramp that lead us down into the center circular area. The building was fairly empty, with only a few visitors here and there. The lighting was quite low but streams of natural light flowed in through the windows and skylights. The space was so quiet that I felt the need to tip toe over the otherwise clunky ramps.
The areas that had some construction work being done were covered up by printed panels of the painted scenes depicted on the walls. This idea of printing or painting what the viewer should actually be seeing is an idea I have noticed in several different situations in Rome. Whether it is an interior or exterior of a building being renovated, there is an attempt to cover up the construction by replicating what one should see as best as possible. This advancement in dealing with construction in an aesthetic means makes sense considering that Rome is most always undergoing some for of construction while maintaining its status as a major tourist attraction and central hub.
The images depicted around the space were extremely gory martyr scenes. The only reason I was able to look at them was because of how long ago they were created, making them seem less disturbing. If the scenes had been modern day depictions through photography as opposed to paintings, they would have been horrific to look at.
Despite its goriness, which I was fairly warned about, there was another element of the space that surprised me. This was the lack of attraction that it had. While the Colosseum was swarmed with tourists from all over the world, fake gladiators and concession stands, this Rotondo was quietly tucked away despite its free of charge admission and status as one of the largest and oldest circular churches.
Despite its lack of attendance and the large amount of construction currently occurring, I really did enjoy seeing this space. It was so nice to veer off the beaten path and into this sanctuary of a space. Although the scenes depicted were full of gore, they were extremely well executed and full of vibrant colors. There was plenty of seating all around so that we were able to spread out and sit by ourselves to both take it all in and reflect which was really a great way to appreciate the space for what it once stood for.
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Today, after my site presentation, we ventured on over to the Palatine Hill. There was only one entrance to the area, as it is now requires both a ticket and security check upon entering. After passing through the gates, we were faced with three paths. The choices were to proceed straight to the dead end that had several benches, to go left or to go right. I proceeded, along with most others, to the left, as that felt like a more natural approach.
After our excursions, a couple of us, along with our professors, took the elevator to the top of Kristen's site, the Altare Della Patria. Best seven euros spent so far, what a view! 🇮🇹 After a long flight and sleepless night, we have arrived safely and happily in beautiful Rome! Cannot wait to see what the next couple of weeks have in store for us ✈️🇮🇹🍕🍝 |
ElyssaStudent studying Rome with Skidmore College |